February 26, 2021

Stitch Exploration Series - Mulberry Dishcloth

February 26, 2021/ Janine Mudge

This post may contain affiliate links, meaning that if you click through and make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support my business and makes it possible for me to bring you free content.

Welcome to the second instalment of the Stitch Exploration Series, the Mulberry Dishcloth!

If you’re new ‘round these parts, this monthly series is dedicated to exploring different stitch techniques and textures. Check out the other patterns in the series HERE.

I find that when I’m designing, I gravitate to the same couple of stitches in my designs, and I hope that this series will allow me to test out new skills and get outside my comfort zone without the pressure of having to create a whole garment. I’ve chosen dishcloths because they’re small enough to finish up quickly, but large enough to get a general idea of the fabric the stitch pattern will create!

This month’s pattern features a really neat technique - working into the side of some stitches to create interesting lines and texture. Read on to learn more about the Mulberry Dishcloth!

For this series, I’ve chosen a beautiful, durable cotton yarn, Dishie from WeCrochet. As you can see, it comes in lots of fun colours (30 solids in total, plus there are also Dishie Twist and Dishie Multi!), and it feels great. And I’ve heard people say that this yarn is good for other things, too - summer garments and tote bags come to mind (we’re getting sooooo close to Spring!).

If you missed the first pattern, the Studded Dishcloth, check it out as well!

Materials

Hook - US G/4mm, or size needed to meet gauge.

Yarn - WeCrochet Dishie, 100% cotton, 190yds (174m)/100g (3.5oz) per skein. I used approx. 108yds (99m) of the colourway Mulberry (hence the pattern name!).

Notions - scissors, tape measure, yarn needle.

Notes

Ch 1 to start each round does not count as a st.

Gauge is not critical for this project, however, if yardage is a concern, you should aim to meet it as closely as possible. No one will judge an extra half inch on your dishcloth!

Generally, I do not block cotton washcloths, because they’re just going to get wet anyway. If you’re making for gifting, or just want to straighten things out, feel free to block as you see fit.

Sizing

Gauge - 4” = 17 sts x 19 rows in sc unblocked.

Finished measurements - approx. 9” wide x 9” tall

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

Ch - chain

CL - cluster (see Special Stitch section)

St(s) - stitch(es)

Sc - single crochet

* * - repeat instructions contained within the asterisks as specified

Special Stitch

Cluster (CL) - consists of a group of clustered double crochet stitches worked into the side of a single crochet to create a horizontal cluster. You will skip the 3 sts under the cluster so that it sits nicely within the rows of single crochet stitches (photo F, below). The written instructions correspond with the photos below, indicated by letter.

Ch 3 (A), *yarn over and insert hook into the middle of the last sc worked (B shows a side view after inserting the hook into the V of the stitch). Pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops (C).* Repeat from * to * three more times (5 loops on hook, D). Yarn over and pull through all loops (E).

Pattern Instructions

Row 1. Ch 40 and turn. Starting in the second ch from hook, and working into the back bumps of each ch st, sc across and turn. <39 sts>

Rows 2-4. Ch 1, sc in each st across and turn.

Row 5. Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, *CL, skip next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts.* Repeat from * to * across and turn. <6 CL>

Rows 6-8. Ch 1, sc in each st across and turn.

Row 9. Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, *CL, skip next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts.* Repeat from * to * until 3 sts remain. Sc in last 3 sts and turn. <5 CL>

Rows 10-33. Repeat Rows 2-9 three more times.

Rows 34-37. Ch 1, sc in each st across and turn.

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Variations

To make your dishcloth narrower or wider, start with fewer or more chain sts in Row 1 in multiples of 9+1, and work fewer or more * * repeats accordingly in Row 2.

To make your dishcloth shorter or longer, work fewer or more repeats of Rows 2-9.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry queue, or add a project to the pattern page!

Mulberry Dishcloth on Ravelry

Congratulations on finishing your Mulberry Dishcloth! What did you think about this technique? I think working into the sides of stitches is such an easy way to add some interesting texture without using complicated stitches. By simply changing the orientation of a few stitches, it creates a whole new look.

I’m curious about how other types of cluster stitches might look in this configuration, or even if bobbles would work… I’m having a lot of fun exploring these new-to-me techniques, and I hope you are too! I’d love to see your dishcloths (in finished or WIP form!), or how you’re using the things you’re learning here in your own designs. Share your dishcloth on Instagram using the hashtags #MulberryDishcloth and #StitchExplorationSeries, and tag me, @capital.crochet!

You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post.

Thank you so much for your support! If you’d like to be the first to know about new patterns in this series and other blog posts, make sure to subscribe to my newsletter below.

February 16, 2021

The Stashdown Square - FREE Tunisian Crochet Pattern

February 16, 2021/ Janine Mudge

This unique square is part of the amazing line up of patterns in this year’s Knitter Knotter Tunisian Blanket CAL, hosted by Arunima over at www.knitterknotter.com! It’s the perfect way to use up those partial skeins and scraps while keeping the colour theme of your blanket.

What is a CAL? Well, it stands for Crochet-ALong, and as the name of this one suggests, everyone who participates in this CAL is making a blanket. Every two weeks a new 12x12”/30x30cm square pattern by a different designer will be released for free on their blog or other platforms. By the end of 2021 you’ll have made 24 completely unique Tunisian crochet squares! For further information about the CAL, including what supplies you need and the links to all the squares, check out the main blog post. While you’re there, you can also sign up to the CAL mailing list and join the Facebook group, if you’re into that!

This is also a great stashbusting pattern, since you can use up bits and pieces of yarn you have laying around, and there’s no concrete yardage requirement. My samples shown here use 3 different colours, but feel free to experiment and make this square your own!

Don’t forget to grab the premium, ad-free PDF on Ravelry or in my pattern shop, as it includes a detailed photo tutorial for this pattern, along with a blank chart that you can use to fill in your own colour plan. Or, you can really go wild and just wing it - it truly is a totally customizable pattern!

pattern shop

Ravelry

Materials

Yarn - approximately 145 yds/133m worsted (4) weight in various colours (I used 3 different colours - A, B and C - of Loops and Threads Impeccable from Michael’s Stores).

Hooks - L/11 8mm Tunisian crochet hook with 12”/30cm cord (or hook needed to meet gauge) – you will use this hook for the main part of the square; AND 7mm regular crochet hook (or two sizes/1mm down from the hook that meets gauge) – you will use this hook for the bind off row and the border. I use the Radiant Wood Interchangeable Hooks from WeCrochet, and I love them!

Notions - locking stitch marker (1), scissors, tape measure, yarn needle, blocking mats and pins.

Notes

The square is worked in four sections using the JAYG technique. The Pattern Instructions and Colour Chart shown below will create the square exactly as pictured. The premium, ad-free PDF has a blank chart that can be coloured in with your own custom colours, so you can vary the placement and size of your colour blocks and create unique squares with as many colours as you like!

The remaining loop on your hook after the RetP is the first stitch of each row, and is not included in the stitch count instruction (i.e., tks next 10 = the first loop is already on your hook, then work a tks in the next 10 sts, for a total of 11 loops on hook).

When you work the last (edge) st of each row, insert your hook under both vertical bars.

Sizing

Gauge: 12 sts x 14 rows = 4”/10cm in tks, blocked

Finished Measurements: approximately 12 x 12”/30 x 30cm

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

ch: chain

st(s): stitch(es)

sl st: slip stitch

sc: single crochet

tks: Tunisian knit stitch (insert hook between two vertical bars and pull up a loop)

JAYG: join as you go (working your square in sections)

RetP: return pass

Regular: ch 1, *yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook
JAYG: join yarn to first st of previous section, *yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook

RS/WS: right side/wrong side

Colour Chart

Colour A: Black Colour B: Teal Colour C: Cream

The numbers at the bottom of the chart represent the number of stitches in each section. Overall, the square is 36 stitches wide.

If your gauge is very different from mine, feel free to add or remove sts and/or rows from the fourth section in order to meet the finished measurements.

Pattern Instructions

Sections

First Section (Colour A, Black)

Row 1: With larger hook, ch 7. Starting in the second ch from hook, pull up a loop in the back bump of each ch st (7 loops on hook). Complete a Regular RetP.

Rows 2-7: Tks each st, complete a Regular RetP.

Row 8: Tks each st. Work the Regular RetP until 2 loops remain on your hook. Place these 2 loops on a stitch marker and cut yarn, leaving a 4” tail.

Second Section (Colour B, Teal)

Row 1: Join B as per JAYG instructions and ch 11. Starting in the second ch from hook, pull up a loop in the back bump of each ch st (11 loops on hook). Complete a JAYG RetP.

Rows 2-8: Tks in each st, complete a JAYG RetP.

Row 9: Tks in next 10 sts, then place both loops of A on your hook. With B, yarn over and pull through both loops of A. Continue working tks across the top of the first section with B, then complete a Regular RetP.

Rows 10-20: Tks each st, complete a Regular RetP.

Row 21: Tks each st. Work the Regular RetP until 2 loops remain on your hook. Place these 2 loops on a stitch marker and cut yarn, leaving a 4” tail.

Third Section (Colour C, Cream)

Row 1: Join C as per JAYG instructions and ch 5. Starting in the second ch from hook, pull up a loop in the back bump of each ch st (5 loops on hook). Complete a JAYG RetP.

Rows 2-21: Tks in each st, complete a JAYG RetP.

Row 22: Tks in next 4 sts, then place both loops of B on your hook. With C, yarn over and pull through both loops of B. Continue working tks across the top of the second section with C, then complete a Regular RetP.

Rows 23-33: Tks in each st, complete a Regular RetP.

Row 34: Tks each st. Work the Regular RetP until 2 loops remain on your hook. Place these 2 loops on a stitch marker and cut yarn, leaving a 4” tail.

Fourth Section (Colour A, Black)

Row 1: Join A as per JAYG instructions and ch 13. Starting in the second ch from hook, pull up a loop in the back bump of each ch st (13 loops on hook). Complete a JAYG RetP.

Rows 2-34: Tks in each st, complete a JAYG RetP.

Row 35: Tks in next 12 sts, then place both loops of C on your hook. With A, yarn over and pull through both loops of C. Continue working tks across the top of the third section with A, then complete a Regular RetP.

Rows 36-39: Tks in each st, complete a Regular RetP.

Do not fasten off Colour A, switch to smaller hook and proceed to Border.

Border

Bind off row: Ch 1, *insert hook into next st as for tks and work a sc st. Repeat from * across the row, until the last st. In the last st, work 3 sc.

Rotate your square to work along the side edge, RS facing up. In the end of each row, work a sc st until you reach the last row. In this row, work 3 sc and rotate your square to work along the bottom. Sc in each ch st from the foundation ch until you reach the last st. Work 3 sc in this last st and rotate your square to work up the other side. In the first st of each row, work a sc until you reach the last row. Sl st to join to the ch-1 space of the Bind off row, and fasten off.

Finishing

Block your square using your preferred method. If you’ve used an acrylic yarn (like I have), or if you find that the edges of your square are curling quite a bit, I recommend a full wet block: soak your square for 15-20 minutes in the sink or a tub of lukewarm water and a bit of wool wash. Drain and gently squeeze out as much water as you can (do not wring or stretch). Lay the square flat on a towel, and either fold the towel up or roll it neatly, then step on it to draw the rest of the water out of the square. Lay it out flat, and you may pin the edges if you like to help the stitches settle. Leave pinned until completely dry.

When your square is dry, weave in all ends to the WS. I like to save this until the very end, so that there’s no chance of puckering or pulling during the blocking process.

Congratulations on finishing the Stashdown Square pattern! I hope this customizable pattern helps you use up your scraps to make a beautifully coordinated square that fits nicely with the rest of your blanket. You could even make a few different ones to tie the whole thing together!

If you share your project on social media, don’t forget to tag me @capital.crochet and @knitterknotter, and use the hashtags #StashdownSquare and #KnitterKnotterTunisianBlanketCAL2021!

You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post.

Thank you so much for your support! If you’d like to be the first to know about free patterns and other exciting news, make sure to subscribe to the newsletter below.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry queue, or add a project to the pattern page!

Stashdown Square on Ravelry

January 30, 2021

Stitch Exploration Series - Studded Dishcloth

January 30, 2021/ Janine Mudge

Have you ever wanted to try new stitches or techniques, but always seem to end up going back to the same familiar textures? I love a good double crochet as much as the next person, but there are only so many ways to arrange the same couple of stitches before they become boring or worse, it’s already been done.

As a designer, one of my biggest fears is working through the development of a pattern idea, making the sample and going through the editing and testing process only to find out that I’ve unintentionally copied someone else - GAH! Anyone else had that dream, or worse, had it happen in real life? It ain’t fun.

I’ve been thinking a lot lately about how I can change things up, or use common stitches a little differently to make sure I’m creating unique and distinct patterns. When I first started designing, I often got stuck because I’d be trying out all these completely new stitch techniques and expecting them to act the same as basic stitches. I would get discouraged when something didn’t work out, and fall back on the stitches I knew and loved.

A goal of mine this year is to branch out and explore different textures and techniques, without the pressure to immediately turn them into a full garment pattern. This way, I can learn about how the stitches behave when they’re worked up together, and then consider what type of garment or accessory pattern they might be best suited for. I thought this would be a great journey to share, since I’m certain I am not the only designer/maker who struggles in this area. So without further ado, welcome to the Stitch Exploration Series!

As the name suggests, I will be exploring new stitches and techniques in a series of FREE dishcloth patterns here on the blog. I’ve chosen dishcloths as the pattern type, because they are just the right size to get a good feel for how the stitch works up, but small enough that you can try out these new techniques while also completing a project and making something useful. My motivation is also practical… I need some new dishcloths - my old ones are in bad shape!

I’ve chosen a beautiful, durable cotton yarn, Dishie from WeCrochet. As you can see, it comes in lots of fun colours (30 solids in total, plus there are also Dishie Twist and Dishie Multi!), and it feels great. And I’ve heard people say that this yarn is good for other things, too - summer garments and tote bags come to mind. Grab some for yourself, and let’s get started on our first Stitch Exploration pattern, the Studded Dishcloth!

Texture is the name of the game here, and this deceptively simply pattern creates a sturdy dishcloth with studded texture that hopefully will make you actually want to tackle that pile in the sink!

Materials

Hook - US G/4mm, or size needed to meet gauge.

Yarn - WeCrochet Dishie, 100% cotton, 190yds (174m)/100g (3.5oz) per skein. I used approx. 107yds (98m) of the colourway Bumblebee.

Notions - scissors, tape measure, yarn needle.

Notes

Ch 1 to start each round does not count as a st.

Gauge is not critical for this project, however, if yardage is a concern, you should aim to meet it as closely as possible. No one will judge an extra half inch on your dishcloth!

Generally, I do not block cotton washcloths, because they’re just going to get wet anyway. If you’re making for gifting, or just want to straighten things out, feel free to block as you see fit.

Sizing

Gauge - 4” = 17 sts x 19 rows in sc unblocked.

Finished measurements - approx. 9” wide x 8.5” tall

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

Ch - chain

St(s) - stitch(es)

Sc - single crochet

Tr - treble crochet

( ) - repeat instructions contained within the parentheses as specified

* * - repeat instructions contained within the asterisks as specified

Pattern Instructions

Row 1. Ch 40 and turn. Starting in the second ch from hook, and working into the back bumps of each ch st, sc across. <39 sts>

Row 2. Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, *(tr in next, sc in next) three times, sc in next.* Repeat from * to * four more times, and sc in last 2 sts.

Row 3. Ch 1, sc in each st across and turn.

Rows 4-7. Repeat Rows 2 and 3.

Rows 8-9. Repeat Row 3.

Rows 10-33. Repeat Rows 2-9 three more times.

Rows 34-39. Repeat Rows 2-7 once more.

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Variations

To make your dishcloth narrower or wider, start with fewer or more chain sts in Row 1 in multiples of 9, and work fewer or more * * repeats accordingly in Row 2.

To make your dishcloth shorter or longer, work fewer or more repeats of Rows 2-9.

Congratulations on finishing your Studded Dishcloth! I really enjoy how combining the simple treble with single crochets creates a uniquely studded texture. I’d love to know what you think about the texture, and if you’ve ever tried a stitch combination similar to this before. I’m also curious to see how this stitch will work with less sturdy fibre, like merino wool or acrylic!

Share your dishcloth on Instagram using the hashtag #StuddedDishcloth, and tag me, @capital.crochet!

You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post.

Thank you so much for your support! If you’d like to be the first to know about new patterns in this series and other blog posts, make sure to subscribe to my newsletter below.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry queue, or add a project to the pattern page!

Studded Dishcloth on Ravelry

December 28, 2020

Winter Sparkle Series - Scarf

December 28, 2020/ Janine Mudge

Hello friends! We’ve made it to the final pattern in the Winter Sparkle series - the Winter Sparkle Scarf!

Towards the end of November, when the days started to get real short and dark, I was sitting in my craft room one gloomy afternoon. I felt bleh, you know, lots I should be doing, no motivation to do anything. Yeah, that was me. Up on my shelf, I caught a glimpse of some Winter Nights yarn and thought, heck yes, gimme some sparkle!

The Winter Sparkle patterns are really fun, because they use two yarns held double to create a unique texture and colour look. The Winter Sparkle Scarf is a relaxing, meditative make that you can easily finish in a Netflix bing sesh or two. Match it up with the other patterns from the Winter Sparkle series, and you’ve got yourself a beautifully coordinated set!

I used Lion Brand Winter Nights for the sparkly yarn, and paired it with Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca. This gives the cowl warmth and comfort.

The pattern uses the Tunisian Simple Stitch, which is the basic Tunisian crochet stitch. It is the perfect stitch to introduce yourself to the fabulous world of Tunisian crochet!

Materials

Hook - US 10mm, or size needed to meet gauge, and a short cord attached. I love these interchangeable hooks and cords from WeCrochet.

Yarn - Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca (I used the colour Oxford Grey) and Lion Brand Winter Nights (I used the colour Chinchilly). You will need approx. 270 yds of each yarn. You may also combine any two worsted (4) weight yarns, or use a bulky (5) yarn on its own, as long as you can meet gauge.

Notions - scissors, tape measure, yarn needle, blocking pins and mat (optional).

Notes

Curling at the edges of Tunisian crochet is common. See the Finishing section below for blocking instructions to help tame the curl.

I’ve made the Infinity scarf version - see the Variations section at the end of the pattern for instructions on how to adjust the size and fit.

Sizing

Gauge - 4” = 8.5 sts x 8 rows in tss unblocked.

Finished measurements - approx. 8” wide x 64” long (prior to seaming, if making the infinity version).

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

Ch - chain

St(s) - stitch(es)

Sl st - slip stitch

Tss - Tunisian Simple Stitch (see HERE for an excellent tutorial!)

Lts - Last Tunisian Stitch (insert hook under both bars)

RetP - Return Pass (Ch 1, *yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until 1 loop remains on your hook)

Pattern Instructions

Row 1. Ch 18. Working in the back bumps (see Picture 1, below), pull up a loop in the second ch from hook, and each ch across. Work a RetP.

Row 2. Tss in each st across, Lts, RetP.

Repeat Row 2 until your work measures 64” long, or desired length.

Bind off row: Ch 1, *sl st next st (see Picture 2, below). Repeat from * until last st. Insert your hook as for Lts and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through both loops. Fasten off, leaving a 12” tail for seaming.

Finishing

Blocking: You may wish to steam block or wet block your work prior to seaming.

To steam block, pin your work down to mats or another flat surface, taking care not to stretch the fabric. Use an iron or steaming tool, gently pass over the whole piece, applying steam to help relax the fibres. Leave pinned until dry.
To wet block, soak your work in cool water for 15-20 mins. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring!) by laying it flat on a towel and rolling it up tight. Lay the wet piece down on mats or a towel, and secure the edges with pins. Take care not to stretch your work; you can use the finished measurements as a guide. Leave pinned until dry.

Seaming: Fold your work so that the two short edges are matched up. Seam the edges together using your preferred seaming method (I like to use the Mattress Stitch technique). Weave in all ends.

Variations

To make your scarf narrower or wider, start with fewer or more chain sts in Row 1.

To make your scarf shorter or longer, work as many rows as you wish to achieve desired length.

To make a traditional long scarf, simply omit the seaming to leave your scarf open. Add tassels or fringe to take it to the next level!

Congratulations on finishing your Winter Sparkle Scarf! I hope you have enjoyed this quick and easy Tunisian crochet pattern. Share your pics on social media and tag me @capital.crochet and use the hashtag #WinterSparkleScarf.

You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post.

Thank you so much for your support! Make sure to check out the other Winter Sparkle patterns in the series: Ear Warmer, Cowl and Mitts!

If you enjoyed this pattern, I thought you might be interested these similar Tunisian crochet scarf patterns, too! Shown below are the Stashdown Scarf (available FREE on the blog!) and the Juliet Cowl, available in my pattern shop, or on Ravelry and Etsy!

December 28, 2020

Winter Sparkle Series - Fingerless Mitts

December 28, 2020/ Janine Mudge

Hello friends! Welcome to the third pattern in the Winter Sparkle series - the Winter Sparkle Mitts!

The Winter Sparkle patterns are really fun, because they use two yarns held double to create a unique texture and colour look. The Winter Sparkle Mitts work up quickly, making them a great last-minute gift item that you can whip up whenever you need something in a flash. They also pair well with other free patterns from the series, like the Winter Sparkle Ear Warmer.

I used Lion Brand Winter Nights for the sparkly yarn, and paired it with Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca. This gives the cowl warmth and comfort.

The pattern uses the Tunisian Simple Stitch, which is the basic Tunisian crochet stitch. It is the perfect stitch to introduce yourself to the fabulous world of Tunisian crochet!

Materials

Hook - US 10mm, or size needed to meet gauge, and a short cord attached. I love these interchangeable hooks and cords from WeCrochet.

Yarn - Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca (I used the colour Oxford Grey) and Lion Brand Winter Nights (I used the colour Chinchilly). You will need approx. 90 yds of each yarn. You may also combine any two worsted (4) weight yarns, or use a bulky (5) yarn on its own, as long as you can meet gauge.

Notions - scissors, tape measure, yarn needle.

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

Ch - chain

St(s) - stitch(es)

Sl st - slip stitch

Inc - increase (pull up a loop in the back bar of the stitch. The next regular tss will be worked in the front bar of the same st, see Special Stitch section)

Tss - Tunisian Simple Stitch (see HERE for an excellent tutorial!)

Lts - Last Tunisian Stitch (insert hook under both bars)

RetP - Return Pass (Ch 1, *yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until 1 loop remains on your hook)

Sizing

Gauge - 4” = 8.5 sts x 8 rows in tss unblocked.

Finished measurements - approximately 8.5" long x 4.5” wide at the thumb.

Notes

Curling at the top and bottom edges of Tunisian crochet is common. See the Finishing section below for blocking instructions to help tame the curl.

These mitts have been designed in one size, to fit a hand that is approximately 8” circumference at the bottom of the fingers. To adjust the size, see the Variations section at the end of the pattern.

Special Stitch

Increase - use this internal increase technique to create a bit of a gusset for your thumb. Work

The top picture shows the detail of the back (1) and front (2) bar of the next st that you will work into.

The bottom picture shows the extra st (1) created for the increase, and the next regular tss st (2) worked into the front bar as per normal.

Pattern Instructions

Row 1. Ch 18. Working in the back bumps (see Picture 1, below), pull up a loop in the second ch from hook, and each ch across. Work a RetP.

Rows 2-5. Tss in each st across, Lts, RetP. (18 sts)

Row 6. Tss 7, inc, tss, inc, tss 8, Lts, RetP. (20 sts)

Rows 7-11. Tss in each st across, Lts, RetP. (20 sts)

Row 12. Tss 7, sl st bind off (see Picture 2, below) next 5, tss 6, Lts. You should have 15 loops on your hook, with 5 sts bound off in the middle. Work a RetP, pinching the two groups of sts together to create the thumb hole where the 5 bound off sts are (see Picture 3, below). (15 sts)

Row 13. Tss 5, inc, tss, inc, tss 7, Lts, RetP. (17 sts)

Rows 14-16. Tss in each st across, Lts, RetP. (17 sts)

Bind off row: Ch 1, *sl st next st. Repeat from * until last st. Insert your hook as for Lts and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through both loops. Fasten off, leaving a 10” tail for seaming.

Finishing

Blocking: You may wish to steam block or wet block your work prior to seaming.

To steam block, pin your work down to mats or another flat surface, taking care not to stretch the fabric. Use an iron or steaming tool, gently pass over the whole piece, applying steam to help relax the fibres. Leave pinned until dry.
To wet block, soak your work in cool water for 15-20 mins. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring!) by laying it flat on a towel and rolling it up tight. Lay the wet piece down on mats or a towel, and secure the edges with pins. Take care not to stretch your work; you can use the finished measurements as a guide. Leave pinned until dry.

Seaming: Fold your work so that the two side edges are matched up, with the thumb hole opposite. Seam the edges together using your preferred seaming method (I like to use the Mattress Stitch technique). Weave in all ends.

Variations

To make your mitts narrower or wider, start with fewer or more chain sts in Row 1.

To make your mitts longer down your arm, work more rows before working Row 6.

To make your mitts taller to cover more of your fingers, work more rows after Rows 14-16, before working the bind off row.

Congratulations on finishing your Winter Sparkle Mitts! I hope you have enjoyed this quick and easy Tunisian crochet pattern. Share your pics on social media and tag me @capital.crochet and use the hashtag #WinterSparkleMitts.

You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post.

Thank you so much for your support! Make sure to check out the other Winter Sparkle patterns in the series: Ear Warmer, Cowl and Scarf!

If you enjoyed this pattern, I thought you might be interested these similar Tunisian crochet patterns, too! Shown below are the Bonfire Mitts and the Juliet Cowl, both available in my pattern shop, or on Ravelry and Etsy!

December 22, 2020

Serene Snowflake Square - part of the Hope in the Holidays Mystery CAL!

December 22, 2020/ Janine Mudge

Hello CAL lovers! I’m so please to be participating in the Hope in the Holidays Mystery CAL hosted by Claire of BearRye. I love coming together with other designers to create a beautiful collection of patterns that can be mixed and matched! Before you get started here, check out the CAL landing page to see all the other squares.

For my square, I wanted it to be simple but unique. I was introduced to the technique of cross-stitch on a Tunisian crochet background earlier this year, and I really enjoy how peaceful and calming these simple but repetitive stitches are. The Serene Snowflake Square is a great pattern for beginners to both Tunisian crochet and cross-stitch!

This pattern is also available in PDF format in my pattern shop. Until 9am EST on 23 December, you can get the PDF for FREE! Head to the CAL landing page first to get the code, then follow the link below to my shop.

get the pdf

Materials

Hook - USI/9 5.5mm Tunisian hook, or interchangeable with a short cord attached. I love these interchangeable hooks and cords from WeCrochet.

Yarn - Mighty Stitch from WeCrochet. I used Alfalfa for Colour A (60yds/55m), Cream for Colour B (6yds/5.5m).

Notions - scissors, tape measure, yarn needle, blocking mats and pins.

Sizing

Gauge - 16 sts x 13 rows = 4”/10cm in tss unblocked.

Finished measurements - 8 x 8”/20.5 x 20.5cm.

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

Ch – chain

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Tss – Tunisian simple stitch

Lts – last Tunisian stitch (insert hook under both vertical bars of the last stitch of each row)

RetP – Return Pass (ch 1, *yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until 1 loop remains on your hook)

Sl st – slip stitch

RS/WS – right side/wrong side

Notes

This pattern is worked using Colour A as the background, and Colour B for the cross-stitch.

The loop on your hook to start each row counts as the first st.

Pattern Instructions

Square

Row 1: With Colour A, ch 31 and turn. Starting in the second ch from hook, pull up a loop in the back bump of each ch st. You should have 31 loops on your hook. Complete a RetP.

Rows 2-24: Tss in each st until last, Lts and complete a RetP.

Bind off row (Row 25 on the chart below): Ch 1, *insert hook under next vertical bar and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until last st. Work a sc in the last st of the row and do not fasten off; proceed to Border.

Border: With the RS facing, rotate your work so that you can work down the side of your rows. 2sc in the same st as your last st of the bind off row. Sc in the end of each row and work 3 sc in the last st before turning the corner. Sc along the bottom of the starting row and work 3 sc in the last st before turning the corner. Sc in the first st of each row until you reach the ch-1 space from the bind off row. Sc in the ch-1 space, then sl st into the same space.

Fasten off and block to finished measurements. Weave in the ends after blocking, making sure to weave them in to the WS.

Cross Stitch

With Colour B, work cross-stitch as per the chart below.

Congratulations on finishing your Serene Snowflake square! I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Share your pics on social media and tag me @capital.crochet and use the hashtag #HopeInTheHolidaysCAL.

You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post.

Thank you so much for your support!

If you enjoyed this pattern, I thought you might be interested in a few other easy Tunisian crochet patterns, too! Shown below are the Juliet Ear Warmer and the Stashdown Pillow, both available in my pattern shop, or on Etsy and Ravelry.

December 15, 2020

Winter Sparkle Series - Cowl

December 15, 2020/ Janine Mudge

Hello friends! I’m so glad to see you back for the second pattern in the Winter Sparkle series - the Winter Sparkle Cowl!

The Winter Sparkle patterns are really fun, because they use two yarns held double to create a unique texture and colour look. The Winter Sparkle Cowl works up quickly and uses about two skeins of yarn, making it a great way to use up those beautiful single skeins from your stash! It also pairs well with other free patterns from the series, like the Winter Sparkle Ear Warmer.

I used Lion Brand Winter Nights for the sparkly yarn, and paired it with Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca. This gives the cowl warmth and comfort.

The pattern uses the Tunisian Simple Stitch, which is the basic Tunisian crochet stitch. It is the perfect stitch to introduce yourself to the fabulous world of Tunisian crochet!

Materials

Hook - US 10mm, or size needed to meet gauge, and a long cord. I love these interchangeable hooks and cords from WeCrochet.

Yarn - Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca (I used the colour Oxford Grey) and Lion Brand Winter Nights (I used the colour Chinchilly). You will need approx. 160 yds of each yarn. You may also combine any two worsted (4) weight yarns, or use a bulky (5) yarn on its own, as long as you can meet gauge.

Notions - scissors, tape measure, yarn needle.

Sizing

Gauge - 4” = 8.5 sts x 8 rows in tss unblocked.

Finished measurements - approximately 8.5" tall x 15” wide (laid flat, before blocking and seaming).

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

Ch - chain

St(s) - stitch(es)

Sl st - slip stitch

Tss - Tunisian Simple Stitch (see HERE for an excellent tutorial!)

Lts - Last Tunisian Stitch (insert hook under both bars)

RetP - Return Pass (Ch 1, *yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until 1 loop remains on your hook)

Notes

Curling at the edges of Tunisian crochet is common. See the Finishing section below for blocking instructions to help tame the curl.

Pattern Instructions

Row 1. Ch 73. Working in the back bumps, pull up a loop in the second ch from hook (see Picture 1, below), and each ch across. Work a RetP.

Row 2. Tss in each st across, Lts, RetP. (73 sts)

Rows 3-15. Repeat Row 2.

Finishing

Blocking: You may wish to steam block or wet block your work prior to seaming. This will help control the curl at the top and bottom of the cowl. I opted for steam blocking, and left a bit of the curl as a design feature.

To steam block, pin your work down to mats or another flat surface. Use an iron or steaming tool, gently pass over the whole piece, applying steam to help relax the fibres. Leave pinned until dry.
To wet block, soak your work in cool water for 15-20 mins. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring!) by laying it flat on a towel and rolling it up tight. Lay the wet piece down on mats or a towel, and secure the edges with pins. Take care not to stretch your work; you can use the finished measurements as a guide. Leave pinned until dry.

Seaming: Fold your work so that the two short ends are matched up. Seam the short ends together using your preferred seaming method (I like to use the Mattress Stitch technique). Weave in all ends.

Variations

You can adjust the height of the cowl by working fewer or more rows.

You can adjust how closely it fits to your face by starting with fewer ch sts for a closer fit, or more ch sts for a looser fit.

Congratulations on finishing your Winter Sparkle Cowl! I hope you have enjoyed this simple, beginner-friendly Tunisian crochet pattern. Share your pics on social media and tag me @capital.crochet and use the hashtag #WinterSparkleCowl.

You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post.

Thank you so much for your support! Watch for the next pattern in the Winter Sparkle series, coming Monday, 21 December!

December 08, 2020

Winter Sparkle Series - Ear Warmer

December 08, 2020/ Janine Mudge

Well hello there! Welcome to the first pattern in my Winter Sparkle Series - the Winter Sparkle Ear Warmer!

The Winter Sparkle patterns are really fun, because they use two yarns held double to create a unique texture and colour look. And because you don’t need very much yardage, the Winter Sparkle Ear Warmer makes a great stash buster and gift item! The possibilities are endless.

I used Lion Brand Winter Nights for the sparkly yarn, and paired it with Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca. This gives the ear warmer warmth and comfort.

The pattern uses the Tunisian Simple Stitch, which is the basic Tunisian crochet stitch. It is the perfect stitch to introduce yourself to the fabulous world of Tunisian crochet!

Materials

Hook - US 10mm, or size needed to meet gauge (no special Tunisian hook required for this pattern!.

Yarn - Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca (I used the colour Oxford Grey) and Lion Brand Winter Nights (I used the colour Chinchilly). You will need approx. 50 yds of each yarn. You may also combine any two worsted (4) weight yarns, or use a bulky (5) yarn on its own, as long as you can meet gauge.

Notions - scissors, tape measure, yarn needle.

Sizing

Gauge - 4” = 8.5 sts x 8 rows in tss unblocked.

Finished measurements - approximately 4.5"” wide x variable circumference (customizable based on your own head circumference)

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

Ch - chain

St(s) - stitch(es)

Sl st - slip stitch

Tss - Tunisian Simple Stitch (see HERE for an excellent tutorial!)

Lts - Last Tunisian Stitch (insert hook under both bars)

RetP - Return Pass (Ch 1, *yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until 1 loop remains on your hook)

Notes

Measure your own head circumference and record the number somewhere.

Pattern Instructions

Row 1. Ch 10. Working in the back bumps (see Picture 1, below), pull up a loop in the second ch from hook, and each ch across. Work a RetP.

Row 2. Tss in each st across, Lts, RetP.

Repeat Row 2 until your work measures approximately 2.5” less than your head circumference. For a looser fit, work until it measures 1.5” less.

Finishing

Fold your work so that the two short ends are matched up. Seam the short ends together using your preferred seaming method (I like to use the Mattress Stitch technique). Weave in all ends.

Variations

You can adjust the width of this piece by starting with fewer or more ch sts.

Congratulations on finishing your Winter Sparkle Ear Warmer! I hope you have enjoyed this simple, beginner-friendly Tunisian crochet pattern. Share your pics on social media and tag me @capital.crochet and use the hashtag #WinterSparkleEarWarmer!

You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post.

Thank you so much for your support! Watch for the next pattern in the Winter Sparkle series, coming Monday, 14 December!

October 30, 2020

The Stashdown Scarf - a FREE Scarftober pattern

October 30, 2020/ Janine Mudge

Well folks, it is officially Winter, because it SNOWED for the first time this year while I was outside taking pics for this pattern. It’s a good thing this latest pattern is thick and cozy, because I think those warm Fall days are behind us now…

I have really enjoyed Scarftober, and I hope you have too. I’m definitely thinking this should be an annual thing - what do you say? In case you missed them, check out the other two free patterns from earlier this month, the Cozy Clusters Infinity pattern, and The Diamond Scarf pattern. This new one, the Stashdown Scarf, just might be my favourite!

I love a good stashbusting pattern, don’t you? The Stashdown Scarf is an easy, repetitive pattern that is completely customizable. It’s perfect for clearing some space on your shelves so you can finally treat yourself guilt-free to a sweater quantity at your favourite dyer’s next shop update (this may or may not be EXACTLY what I plan to do). I’ve used worsted weight here, but you can use whatever you have!

Green Field Girl Spring Pinterest Graphic.png

Look at that SQUISH! This stitch pattern really creates a warm and cozy fabric, no matter what size yarn you use. Now, this is a Tunisian crochet pattern, but if you’ve never tried this craft before, fear not! You won’t need any special hooks, and I’ve linked below to my favourite videos from the Queen of Tunisian herself, Toni at TL Yarn Crafts! Take a few minutes to get familiar with the Tunisian Full Stitch and the Join As You Go technique, then come on back when you’re ready to get started.

Learn the Tunisian Full Stitch from start to finish in this quick crochet tutorial. WHAT YOU'LL LEARN: -Foundation forward and return pass -Two row repeat of...

Expand your Tunisian crochet skills by learning to add panels as you go! This is a great skill to learn for creating beautiful blankets, like my Temperature ...

PDF Pattern coming soon!

I do plan to offer an ad-free, printable pdf version of the pattern very soon but for now, follow along below for the beginner-friendly directions, and get started on your very own Stashdown Scarf today!

Materials

Hook - US J/6mm, or size needed to meet gauge.

Yarn - 3 different colours of worsted (4) weight, approximately 280 yds each.

Notions - scissors, tape measure, yarn needle, 9” piece of cardboard or book to make the fringe.

Optional - blocking mats and pins.

Sizing

Gauge - 7 sts x 7 rows = 2” in Tunisian Full Stitch.

Finished measurements - approximately 72” long x 9.5” wide (not including fringe).

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

Ch - chain

St(s) - stitch(es)

Sl st - slip stitch

Tfs - Tunisian Full Stitch (see tutorial video above)

Lts - last Tunisian stitch (insert hook under both loops of the edge stitch and pull up a loop)

RetP - Return Pass

Notes

This pattern is worked in 3 “strips.” The first strip is worked in regular tfs. The second and third strips are joined onto the side of the previous strip - no seaming in this pattern, my friends! For a great tutorial on the Join As You Go method, see the video above.

The first loop on the hook counts as the first stitch for each row.

For the first strip, the RetP is worked as follows: Ch 1, *yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Repeat from * until 1 loop remains.

For the second and third strips, the RetP is worked as follows: Join with a sl st to the edge of the previous strip. *Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook. Repeat from * until 1 loop remains.

Pattern Instructions

First Strip

Row 1. Ch 12 and turn. Working into the back bumps of the ch sts, and starting in the second ch from hook, pull up a loop in each back bump (12 loops on hook). Work a RetP.

Row 2. Starting in the first space (between the first and second sts), tfs 10. Skip the last space, Lts and work a RetP.

Row 3. Skip the first space, tfs 10, Lts and work a Ret P.

Alternate Rows 2 and 3 until your work measures approximately 71” long (end on a repeat of Row 3).

Last row (bind off): Ch 1, starting in the first space, *insert hook as for tfs and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull though both loops on the hook. Repeat from * in each space until one space remains. Skip the last space, insert hook into the last stitch as for Lts, yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Second and Third Strips

Row 1. Attach yarn at the bottom right corner of the previous strip, ch 12 and turn. Working into the back bumps of the ch sts, and starting in the second ch from hook, pull up a loop in each back bump (12 loops on hook). Join with a sl st to Row 1 of the previous strip and work a RetP.

Row 2. Starting in the first space (between the first and second sts), tfs 11. Join with a sl st in the side of the first st of the next row on the previous strip and work a RetP.

Row 3. Skip the first space, tfs 11. Join with a sl st in the side of the first st of the next row on the previous strip and work a RetP.

Alternate Rows 2 and 3 until you’ve joined to each row of the previous strip, minus the last (bind off) row.

Last row (bind off): Ch 1, starting in the first space, *insert hook as for tfs and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull though both loops on the hook. Repeat from * in each space until one space remains. Skip the last space, join with a sl st to the ch st of the previous strip’s last row. Fasten off and we in ends.

Blocking

Prior to adding the fringe, you may wish to block your work to straighten things out (sometimes Tunisian crochet tends to lean a little bit). Block your scarf according the fibre you’ve used - either wet block or steam block. Once your scarf is dry, you can move on to attaching the fringe.

Fringe

To create the fringe, wrap yarn loosely but securely around your piece of cardboard or book. You don’t want any slack in your wraps but you also don’t want it to be stretched tight. Cut your wrapped yarn along one end only. You will need 216 pieces of yarn approximately 18” in length. I chose to do my fringe colour blocked and matching my strips, meaning I used 36 pieces of each colour per end. Feel free to mix up your colours!

Insert your hook into the first stitch on one of the short ends, and grab 3 strands of fringe with your hook. Pull a loop through, then pull the ends of the fringe through the loop. Cinch it down to tighten the fringe. Repeat in each stitch across both short ends of your scarf. Trim your fringe as needed, and you may wish to steam it to straighten out the strands.

Variations

Make an infinity scarf by omitting the fringe and seaming the short ends together to form a big loop.

Try different yarn weights and fibre content for a lighter or thicker scarf.

Adjust the length by working fewer or more rows of each strip. Adjust the width of your scarf by adjusting the number of strips, or the number of chain stitches in Row 1 of each strip. You can even make them uneven for an abstract effect.

Try variations on the fringe by making your pieces shorter or longer, or by placing fringe in every other or every third stitch. Leave the fringe off completely if it’s not your thing, or try tassels or poms!

Congratulations on finishing your fabulous new Stashdown Scarf! Share your pics on social media and tag me @capital.crochet and use the hashtag #StashdownScarf.

You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post.

Thank you so much for your support!

Hey, Stashbuster! If you are looking for more patterns to help you work through your glorious yarn stash, check out these helpful patterns. Shown below are the Stashdown Blanket and Stashdown Pillow, available in my pattern shop, or on Etsy and Ravelry. Check out the Stashdown Blanket as a FREE pattern here on the blog, too!

Happy crocheting, friends!

October 16, 2020

The Diamond Scarf - a FREE Scarftober pattern

October 16, 2020/ Janine Mudge

We’re midway through this glorious month of Scarftober - yep, you heard that right! Scarftober, the perfect time to work up some warm and cozy scarves so you’re ready when those cold November days hit you out of the blue. I’m so pleased to bring you 3 free scarf patterns this month! In case you missed the first one, check out the Cozy Clusters Infinity pattern from a few weeks ago.

This next pattern is really special to me, because it was actually the VERY FIRST pattern I ever wrote and published for sale. That was over 3 years ago! It uses simple, beginner-friendly stitches, making it a great first scarf for someone new to crochet. I’ve given the original version a bit of a makeover, and I’m so happy to be sharing it here on the blog!

Green Bordered Wedding Pinterest Graphic (4).png

I first wrote the pattern for worsted weight (4) yarn - specifically Caron Cakes. They work really well for this pattern since you get effortless colour coordinated stripes without all the ends! But for this blog post, I wanted to up the cozy factor, so I used a wonderfully squishy super bulky (6) wool/acrylic blend. The result is next level warmth, and of course, the mustard yellow is so on trend (a rare thing for me!).

PDF Pattern coming soon!

I do plan to offer an ad-free, printable pdf version of the pattern very soon with both the worsted and super bulky options, but for now, follow along below for the beginner-friendly directions, and get started on your very own Diamond Scarf today!

Materials

Hook - US 10mm, or size needed to meet gauge.

Yarn - 4 balls of Cozy Wool by Loops and Threads, available at Michael’s stores (or approx. 340 yds of super bulky (6) weight yarn).

Notions - scissors, tape measure, yarn needle, 9” piece of cardboard or book to make the fringe.

Sizing

Gauge - 8 sts x 4 rows = 4” in dc.

Finished measurements - approximately 71” long x 9.5” wide (not including fringe).

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

Ch - chain

St(s) - stitch(es)

Sk - skip

Dc - double crochet

Fdc - foundation double crochet

Notes

Ch 3 to start each row counts as a dc.

Pattern Instructions

Row 1. Ch 22 and turn. In the fourth ch from the hook, dc (the first 3 chs count as 1 dc st). Dc in each ch across and turn. (20 sts)

TIP: you may also work row 1 with foundation sts: Fdc 20 and turn.

Row 2. Ch 3, dc 2, ch 1 sk 1, dc 12, ch 1 sk 1, dc 3 and turn.

Row 3. Ch 3, dc 3, ch 1 sk 1, dc 10, ch 1 sk 1, dc 4 and turn.

Row 4. Ch 3, dc 4, ch 1 sk 1, dc 8, ch 1 sk 1, dc 5 and turn.

Row 5. Ch 3, dc 5, ch 1 sk 1, dc 6, ch 1 sk 1, dc 6 and turn.

Row 6. Ch 3, dc 6, ch 1 sk 1, dc 4, ch 1 sk 1, dc 7 and turn.

Row 7. Ch 3, dc 7, ch 1 sk 1, dc 2, ch 1 sk 1, dc 8 and turn.

Row 8. Ch 3, dc 6, ch 1 sk 1, dc 4, ch 1 sk 1, dc 7 and turn.

Row 9. Ch 3, dc 5, ch 1 sk 1, dc 6, ch 1 sk 1, dc 6 and turn.

Row 10. Ch 3, dc 4, ch 1 sk 1, dc 8, ch 1 sk 1, dc 5 and turn.

Row 11. Ch 3, dc 3, ch 1 sk 1, dc 10, ch 1 sk 1, dc 4 and turn.

Repeat Rows 2-11 six more times. Your scarf should measure approximately 69” at this point.

Work one more repeat of Row 2.

Last row: Ch 3, dc in each st across. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Finishing

To create the fringe, wrap yarn loosely but securely around your piece of cardboard or book. You don’t want any slack in your wraps but you also don’t want it to be stretched tight. Cut your wrapped yarn along one end only. You will need 80 strands at approximately 18” each – I did two batches of wrapping it 40 times.

Insert your hook into the first stitch on one of the short ends, and grab 2 strands of fringe with your hook. Pull a loop through, then pull the ends of the fringe through the loop. Cinch it down to tighten the fringe. Repeat in each stitch across both short ends of your scarf. Trim your fringe so that it is fairly even, and you may wish to steam it to straighten out the strands.

Variations

This can also be made into an infinity scarf by seaming the short ends together to form a big loop.

Congratulations on finishing your fabulous new Diamond Scarf! Share your pics on social media and tag me @capital.crochet and use the hashtag #TheDiamondScarf.

You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post.

Thank you so much for your support! Watch for the last pattern in the Scarftober series, dropping here on the blog on 30 October. See you then!

Hey fellow scarf lover, I thought you might enjoy these other patterns, too! Shown below are the Rachel Super Scarf and the Colour Block Triangle Scarf, both available in my pattern shop, or on Etsy and Ravelry.

October 02, 2020

Cozy Clusters Infinity Scarf - a FREE Scarftober pattern

October 02, 2020/ Janine Mudge

This post contains affiliate links, meaning that if you click through and make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support my business and makes it possible for me to bring you free content.

Welcome to SCARFTOBER, my friends! October is a beautiful month of seasonal shift. It usually starts out with fairly warm temperatures, but by the end of the month, there may just be snow on the ground! Scarves are always one of the first things I reach for when the temperatures drop, so I thought it would be a great idea to feature a few easy but beautiful patterns this month. You’ll be able to whip up these patterns in no time, so when the snow really flies in November and December, you’ll be prepared!

Scarves don’t just provide warmth when bundling up for the outdoors. You can wear a scarf indoors too, which is awesome if your office is perpetually cold, or if you (or your spouse!) REFUSES to turn on the furnace until a certain date. The same can’t really be said for other winter wear like toques or mitts - I mean, you could, but these items just don’t have the same aesthetic effect as wrapping a beautiful scarf around your neck and shoulders.

Scarves make great gifts, too! And there are so many different styles and yarns to choose from - the options are endless. My goal this month is to bring you three beautiful scarf patterns that are A. easy to whip up, B. have lots of customizing options, and C. make great handmade gifts - cuz that season is juuuuuuust around the corner!

Without further ado, I present to you the first pattern in my Scarftober series - The Cozy Clusters Infinity Scarf!

Yellow Journalism Photo Pinterest Graphic (1).png

Isn’t she a beaut? The scarf, I mean… not me! I wanted to create a pattern that was relaxing and meditative, but still scored high on gorgeous texture and I think this pattern accomplishes all that. I was able to settle in for some super Netflix-able stitches, and this Lion Brand Yarn Mandala Tweed Stripes has the perfect colours and texture to really give this piece some pizzaz!

PDF Pattern coming soon!

I do plan to offer an ad-free, printable pdf version of the pattern very soon, but for now, follow along below for the beginner-friendly directions, and get started on your very own Cozy Clusters Infinity Scarf today!

Materials

Hook - US J/6mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Yarn - Lion Brand Yarn Mandala Tweed Stripes 100% Acrylic, 150 g/5.3 oz, 426 yds/390 m (I used 2 balls of the Horseshoe colourway) or approximately 775 yds of a comparable worsted (4) weight yarn.

Notions - scissors, tape measure, yarn needle.

Sizing

Gauge - 5 clusters x 4.5 rows = 4” in pattern stitch.

Gauge is not super important for this pattern, however, I have used it to measure yardage.

Finished measurements - approximately 76” long x 9” wide (before seaming).

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

Ch - chain

St(s) - stitch(es)

Sc - single crochet

Dc - double crochet

Cluster - [sc, 2dc] worked into the same stitch

* * - repeat the directions inside the asterisks

Notes

Ch 1 to start each row does not count as a stitch.

This pattern has been designed to use a worsted (4) weight yarn, but please feel free to experiment with other yarn weights!

Pattern Instructions

Row 1. Ch 35 and turn. Starting in the second ch from hook, *cluster and skip next 2 chs.* Repeat from * to * until 1 ch remains. Sc in the last ch st and turn. (11 clusters)

Row 2. Ch 1, cluster into the first sc and skip 2 dc, *cluster in next sc, skip 2 dc.* Repeat from * to * until 1 sc remains. Sc in last sc and turn.

Repeat Row 2 until your scarf measures approximately 76” long.

Finishing

Fold your scarf so that the two short ends match up, and seam them together using your preferred seaming method. Weave in your ends, and voila, you’re done!

Variations

If you want your scarf to fit a little tighter to your neck, stop around 70”, and for a much looser (or a TRIPLE wrap infinity scarf!), go until it measures 82” long. These are just recommendations; the nice thing about a pattern like this is that you can totally customize it to the length that is perfect for you! Keep in mind that working more rows will require additional yardage.

You can also leave the short ends unseamed for a traditional-style scarf - and add some fringe if you want to really take it to the next level!

Adjust the width of the scarf by starting with a foundation chain in a multiple of 3 + 2 chs.

Congratulations on finishing your Cozy Clusters Infinity Scarf! Now, wrap that bad boy around your neck, cozy up with your favourite cold weather beverage, and wait for the snow to fly… While you’re waiting, why not snap a few pics and share them on Instagram! Tag me @capital.crochet and use the hashtag #CozyClustersInfinity.

You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post, to my Instagram profile or to my Ravelry store.

Thank you so much for your support! Stay tuned for the next instalment of SCARFTOBER, coming at you on 16 October. I hope you’ll pop back over to the blog to celebrate, especially because that’s also my birthday - see you then!

May 08, 2020

Stashdown Blanket - a FREE Tunisian crochet pattern

May 08, 2020/ Janine Mudge

Anyone else have an enormous stash of Bernat Blanket yarn? I literally had a drawer full of odds and ends - leftovers from my many Homebody Slippers that I’ve made as gifts and to sell at markets over the years. Since 2020 is the Year of the Stashdown, I decided to put all those balls into play in a fun and colourful pattern that can be completely customized to suit your stash!

My love affair with Tunisian crochet began around this time last year. It is so cool to see the world of new textures that opens up to you, and I promise it is much easier than it looks. This pattern uses the Tunisian Simple Stitch, which is the basic stitch technique and the easiest for a beginner to learn. If you need a tutorial on the Tunisian Simple Stitch, there are many available for free on youtube!

Below, you’ll find the free written pattern to make your very own Stashdown Blanket. If you prefer a printable pdf, a low-cost version of this pattern is available for download on Ravelry.

Click here to download the pattern on Ravelry

Materials

Size Q/16.00mm standard crochet hook (no special hooks required!)

Yarn – Bernat Blanket yarn, yardage varies from 550 for Baby size to 5200 for King size

Scissors

Tape Measure

Yarn Needle

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard American (US) terms:

Ch - chain

St(s) - stitch(es)

Sl st - slip stitch

Tss - Tunisian Simple Stitch

Slip stitch bind off - insert hook into next st, pull up a loop and pull through 1 loop on the hook. Repeat across the row and fasten off.

Sizing

Gauge – 7 sts x 5.5 rows = 4” in Tss

Gauge is not super important for this pattern, however, I have used it as the standard for all the different blanket sizes.

Standard Blanket Sizes

Here are some standard sizes and approximate row and strip counts to achieve them. Of course, you may make this a truly scrappy stashbuster by just making until all your yarn is used up!

Notes

This pattern uses the Join-As-You-Go method. If you are not familiar with this technique, TL Yarn Crafts has a great tutorial!

The return pass is worked as follows: *yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * until 1 loop remains on the hook.

I prefer to change colours at the end of a return pass. To do it this way, pull through the last two sts of the return pass with the new colour yarn. Feel free to change colours whenever you please to get a colour pattern that is totally unique!

If you’re working your blanket with scraps and doing many colour changes, I recommend weaving in your ends after each strip. I learned the hard way that waiting until you’ve made 7 strips makes for SO MANY ENDS to weave in all at once!

This pattern has been designed to use Bernat Blanket yarn which is a 100% polyester Super Bulky (6) weight yarn. Using a different brand or fibre content may produce different results and measurements.

Pattern

First Strip

Row 1. Ch 7 and turn. Starting in the second ch from hook, pull up a loop in the back bumps of each st (7 loops on hook). Ch 1 and work a return pass.

Row 2. Tss in each st across (7 loops on hook). Ch 1 and work a return pass.

Repeat row 2 to the desired length (see chart above for standard blanket sizes and approximate row counts), making colour changes whenever you please. Tip: I prefer to make my colour changes at the end of a return pass to keep the rows neat and tidy.

When you’ve got your strip to the desired length, work a slip stitch bind off row.

Second and Subsequent Strips

Now it’s time to start your next strip.

Row 1. Join your yarn to the bottom of the first row of your first strip. Ch 7 and turn. Starting in the second ch from hook, pull up a loop in the back bumps of each st (7 loops on hook). Sl st into the side of the first row on your first strip to join (this counts as your ch 1) and work a return pass.

Row 2. Tss in each st across (7 loops on hook). Sl st into the side of the next row on your previous strip (this counts as your ch 1) and work a return pass.

Repeat row 2 for the same number of rows as your previous strip. Work a slip stitch bind off row to finish off and start again on your next strip. Refer to the sizing chart for number of strips to work to achieve the desired size.

Variations

My Stashdown Blanket uses scraps and tidbits, but you can certainly make this blanket with more of a plan. You can plan each colour change after a certain number of rows (I’m picturing a checkerboard!), or work full strips in solid colours for bold stripes. You can even change the number of stitches in each row to create wider or narrower strips! The creative possibilities are endless and I would love to see what you come up with.

Make sure to use #StashdownBlanket and tag me @capital.crochet when you share your blankets on Instagram! You can also add your project to Ravelry HERE.

If you like working with this yarn, I invite you to check out my Homebody Slippers and Cozy Spa patterns. They also use smaller amounts of Bernat Blanket yarn, and are great instant gratification projects.

I hope you enjoy this stashbusting project, and thank you so much for crocheting along!

April 14, 2020

In Bloom Spring Blanket CAL - Springtime Stripes

April 14, 2020/ Janine Mudge

Mid-April already - I don’t know about you but I am absolutely ecstatic about the winter being over and gone. I am ok with the cold and snow until about 27 December, so by the time March/April rolls around I am SO READY for some warmth and sun!

Are you following along with the In Bloom Spring Blanket Crochet-Along (CAL), which features a new crocheted square every day in April? The CAL is hosted by my friend Claire of Bear Rye, and features some of my favourite crochet designers. You might remember my Tulip Twins Square that I shared recently. Today I’m sharing another square that can be used as a filler in your blanket, the Springtime Stripes square.

Before you get started, head to the main landing page HERE to check out the other squares, read about the yarn we are using, and join the Facebook group!

This square is designed to compliment the rest of the squares in your blanket. Feel free to use one, two or three colours (or more!) to create beautifully textured stripes that can be placed between the main squares. The samples shown are just a few ideas on how to use the leftover yarn from this CAL to make your blanket even bigger.

Special thank you to WeCrochet for providing the yarn support for this project!

Below, you’ll find the free written pattern. If you prefer a printable pdf, a low-cost version of this pattern is available on Ravelry, and you can grab it for FREE today (14 April) only. You’ll need to check out the main landing page for the code, then head to Ravelry to get your copy.

Click here to download the pattern on Ravelry

When sharing your square on social media, use the hashtags #InBloomBlanketCAL and #SpringBloomsBlanketCAL, and don’t forget to tag me @capital.crochet on Instagram so I can see all the lovely colourful stripes!

Materials

Size G/4.00mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Yarn – 75 yds of Mighty Stitch from WeCrochet, or similar worsted weight (4) yarn

Scissors, yarn needle and tape measure

Sizing

Gauge – 12 sts x 7.5 rows = 4” in DCC

Your finished square will be approximately 8” x 8”. You should aim to meet gauge as closely as possible, but to achieve exact measurements, you can block your finished square.

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard American (US) terms:

Ch – chain

St(s) – stitch(es)

DCC - double crochet cluster (see Special Stitch)

Special Stitch - Double Crochet Cluster

Yarn over, insert hook into next st. Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops, leaving two loops on the hook. Yarn over and insert hook into the same st. Yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops, then yarn over and pull through the remaining 3 loops. Tip: the pdf pattern includes a picture tutorial to show you exactly how to do this stitch!

Notes

Ch 2 to start each row does not count as a st.

This square may be worked in a solid colour, or with stripes. When changing colours, finish the last st of the previous colour with the next colour, and cut your previous colour yarn. This will create a clean colour change. It does mean you’ll have lots of ends to weave in, but the edges of your stripes will be neat and tidy.

There is no defined right side or wrong side for this pattern, and you’ll notice that the unique texture created by the clusters has a different look on each side. When you are finished, choose one side to be the wrong side and weave all your ends in on this side. That way if any come loose or poke out, they won’t show on the right side of your square.

Pattern

Row 1. Loosely ch 25 and turn. In the third ch from hook, work a DCC. DCC in each ch st and turn. (23 DCC)

Row 2. Ch 2, DCC in each st across and turn. (23 DCC)

Rows 3-15. Repeat Row 2.

Fasten off, and weave in the ends. Block your square to 8” x 8” if necessary, and voila! It’s ready to be sewn into your blanket!

Make sure to follow along each day in April on the main CAL page to get all the beautiful patterns for this CAL.

If you missed a few days, or just want to grab all the square patterns at a super discounted price, we’ve got a deal for you! You may purchase the pdfs for all 30 square patterns in one convenient bundle for $7 via my affiliate link below - that’s a savings of $23!

purchase the in bloom spring blanket cal bundle for only $7

My favourite part of a CAL like this is how all the squares are designed to go together. You can see how well the Springtime Stripes compliment the Tulip Twins!

Thank you so much for crocheting along!

April 05, 2020

In Bloom Spring Blanket CAL - Tulip Twins Square

April 05, 2020/ Janine Mudge

Spring has finally arrived! Although we still have a wee bit of snow left on the ground, the robins pulling worms in the backyard confirm that warmer days are definitely on the way. I’m so happy to be part of the In Bloom Spring Blanket Crochet-Along (CAL), which runs all this month and features a new square every day. The CAL is hosted by my friend Claire of Bear Rye, and features some of my favourite crochet designers.

Flower Photo Spring Pinterest Graphic.png

Before you get started, head to the main landing page HERE to check out the other squares, see the yarn requirements, and join the Facebook group! There are also prizes to be won, so make sure to play along.

I’m so excited to introduce my first square, the Tulip Twins Square. Initially, I had planned for just one tulip, but as I worked it up it looked so lonely. And really, you never see just one solitary tulip in a garden. I love a good alliteration, so the Tulip Twins idea came really easily.

Special thank you to WeCrochet for providing the yarn support for this project!

Below, you’ll find the free written pattern. If you prefer a printable pdf with an easy-to-follow colour chart, a low-cost version of this pattern is available on Ravelry, and you can grab it for FREE today (5 April) only. You’ll need to check out the main landing page for the code, then head to Ravelry to get your copy of the pattern.

Click here to download the pattern on Ravelry

Materials

Size G/4.00mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Yarn – Mighty Stitch from WeCrochet, or similar worsted weight (4) yarn - Colour A: Cream; Colour B: Alfalfa; Colour C: Wisteria

Scissors, yarn needle and tape measure

Sizing

Gauge – 14 sts x 15 rows = 4” in sc

Your finished square will be approximately 8” x 8”. You should aim to meet gauge as closely as possible, but to achieve exact measurements, you can block your finished square.

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard American (US) terms:

Ch – chain

St(s) – stitch(es)

Sc – single crochet

Fsc – foundation single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

RS – right side of your work (the front of the square)

WS – wrong side of your work (the back of the square)

Notes

Ch 1 to start each row does not count as a st.

Start your project with Colour A. When changing colours, finish the last st of the previous colour with the next colour. This will create a clean colour change.

When carrying your main colour yarn under your contrast colour sts, try to edge it toward the WS of the square. On RS rows, edge it to the back, and on WS rows, keep it at the front. This will help hide it when you look at the RS of the square.

Pattern

Row 1 (RS). Fsc 35, ch 1 and turn. If you prefer, you may ch 36 and turn, then work 35 sc into your chain.

Rows 2-4. Sc 35, ch 1 and turn.

Row 5. Sc 8. Switch to Colour B, sc 2. Switch to Colour A, sc 14. Switch to Colour B, sc 2. Switch to Colour A, sc 9. Ch 1 and turn.

For clarity, the remaining rows will be simplified to the following format: A: 7. Where A indicates the colour of yarn to use, and the number indicates the number of sc sts to work. TIP: the pdf version of this pattern has an easy-to-follow, colour-coded chart!

Row 6. A: 7. B: 4. A: 12. B: 4. A: 8. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 7. A: 7. B: 6. A: 10. B: 6. A: 6. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 8. A: 6. B: 7. A: 9. B: 7. A: 6. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 9. A: 5. B: 5. A: 1. B: 3. A: 7. B: 5. A:1. B: 3. A: 5. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 10. A: 4. B: 3. A: 2. B: 1. A: 2. B: 3. A: 5. B: 3. A: 2. B: 1. A: 2. B: 3. A: 4. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 11. A: 4. B: 2. A: 3. B: 1. A: 2. B: 3. A: 5. B: 2. A: 3. B: 1. A: 2. B: 3. A: 4. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 12. A: 4. B: 2. A: 3. B: 1. A: 3. B: 3. A: 4. B: 2. A: 3. B: 1. A: 3. B: 3. A: 3. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 13. A: 3. B: 2. A: 4. B: 1. A: 3. B: 3. A: 3. B: 2. A: 4. B: 1. A: 3. B: 3. A: 3. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 14. A: 3. B: 2. A: 4. B: 1. A: 4. B: 2. A: 3. B: 2. A: 4. B: 1. A: 4. B: 2. A: 3. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 15. A: 3. B: 1. A: 5. B: 1. A: 4. B: 1. A: 4. B: 1. A: 5. B: 1. A: 4. B: 1. A: 4. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 16. A: 4. B: 1. A: 4. B: 1. A: 5. B: 1. A: 4. B: 1. A: 4. B: 1. A: 5. B: 1. A: 3. Ch 1 and turn.

Rows 17-18. A: 9. B: 1. A: 15. B: 1. A: 9. Ch 1 and turn.

We are now finished with Colour B, so you can fasten off and weave in that end to keep your work neat and tidy. Starting in Row 19, we will be working with Colours A and C.

Row 19. A: 7. C: 5. A: 11. C: 5. A: 7. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 20. A: 6. C: 7. A: 19. C: 7. A: 6. Ch 1 and turn.

Rows 21-22. A: 5. C: 9. A: 7. C: 9. A: 5. Ch 1 and turn.

Rows 23-25. A: 4. C: 11. A: 5. C: 11. A: 4. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 26. A: 4. C: 3. A: 1. C: 3. A: 1. C: 3. A: 5. C: 3. A: 1. C: 3. A: 1. C: 3. A: 4. Ch 1 and turn.

Rows 27-28. A: 4. C: 2. A: 2. C: 3. A: 2. C: 2. A: 5. C: 2. A: 2. C: 3. A: 2. C: 2. A: 4. Ch 1 and turn.

Rows 29-30. A: 4. C: 1. A: 4. C: 1. A: 4. C: 1. A: 5. C: 1. A: 4. C: 1. A: 4. C: 1. A: 4. Ch 1 and turn.

Rows 31-34. Using Colour A, sc in each st across, ch 1 and turn.

Do not fasten off. You will now work sc sts with Colour A around the edge of your square to finish it off nicely. You could also use one of the other colours if you prefer.

With the RS facing, work 34 sc across the top of the square. In the final st, work 3 sc to form the corner. Sc 32 sts down the side of the square, placing a st in the end of each row. In the final st, work 3 sc to form the corner. Sc 33 sts across the bottom and work 3 sc in the final st on this edge. Work 32 sc up the other side of the square. In the same st as first st of the edging, place two more sc to finish the final corner, and join to the first sc to close off the edging.

Fasten off, and weave in the ends. Make sure to weave the ends toward the WS so they don’t show on the front. Block your square to 8” x 8” if necessary, and voila! It’s ready to be sewn into your blanket!

Make sure to follow along each day on the main CAL page to see all the beautiful patterns for this CAL. If you prefer to have each pattern automatically emailed to you, you can purchase all of the pdf patterns in one convenient bundle for a fraction of the cost! Follow the link below to purchase the bundle.

Click here to purchase all the In Bloom CAL patterns in a convenient bundle

Thanks so much for crocheting along!